Leith is Edinburgh's port district, sitting at the foot of Leith Walk where the Water of Leith meets the Firth of Forth. Historically a separate burgh with its own distinct identity (a point of pride that many Leithers still hold firmly), it was absorbed into Edinburgh in 1920. Today, Leith has emerged as one of Edinburgh's most dynamic areas for eating, drinking, live music, and cultural events, with a character that is grittier, more diverse, and more affordable than the Georgian grandeur of the New Town up the hill.
The Shore and waterfront
The Shore, the stretch of road running along the Water of Leith near its mouth, is the heart of Leith's social scene. The old harbour buildings have been converted into restaurants, pubs, and apartments, and the area has a waterfront atmosphere that is unique in Edinburgh. On a sunny day, the outdoor seating along the Shore fills up quickly, and the reflections of the old buildings in the water give the area a photogenic quality.
The King's Wark on the Shore is one of Leith's oldest pubs, housed in a building with roots going back to the 15th century. The food is good, the beer selection is strong, and the interior has genuine historic character. Nearby, Teuchters Landing on Dock Place has a floating pontoon bar on the water that is one of Edinburgh's best outdoor drinking spots in summer.
The Lioness of Leith on Duke Street is a neighbourhood pub that has built a strong reputation for its food and community atmosphere. It is the kind of place where you might start with lunch and still be there in the evening, which is a mark of a genuinely good pub.
Live music and entertainment
Leith Theatre on Ferry Road is one of the area's most exciting venue stories. This art deco theatre, built in 1932, fell into disuse in the 1980s but has been undergoing gradual restoration. It hosts events during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and at other times of year, and performances in the partially-restored building have a unique atmosphere. The ongoing restoration project is community-led and worth supporting.
Pilrig Church and other community spaces in Leith host occasional concerts, spoken word events, and cultural performances, particularly during the Fringe in August. Leith Depot on Leith Walk was a beloved live music bar before its closure, but the area continues to support live music through various pubs and pop-up events.
For more established venue options, Summerhall on the border between Leith and the Southside is a converted veterinary school that has become one of Edinburgh's most important cultural venues. It hosts a year-round programme of performance, art, and events, and during the Fringe it is one of the most respected independent venues.
Food and restaurants
Leith's restaurant scene is arguably the strongest in Edinburgh. The Kitchin on Commercial Quay, run by Tom Kitchin, holds a Michelin star and serves French-Scottish cuisine using exceptional Scottish produce. Restaurant Martin Wishart on the Shore, another Michelin-starred establishment, has been a Leith fixture since 1999. These are special-occasion restaurants, but they anchor a food culture that extends to much more affordable options.
For casual dining, Leith has excellent choices. Bross Bagels on Leith Walk serves what many consider the best bagels in Edinburgh. Alby's on Constitution Street is a neighbourhood bar-restaurant serving a Mediterranean-influenced menu. The Walnut on Leith Walk is a cafe-restaurant with a loyal local following. The variety of cuisines available along Leith Walk and the surrounding streets reflects the area's diverse population.
Bars and nightlife
Leith's bar scene covers a broad range. Nobles on Constitution Street is a traditional bar with Victorian features and a no-frills approach that locals appreciate. Brass Monkey Leith on Leith Walk has a cinema room in the back showing films on a large screen, combining pub drinks with an informal movie-watching experience.
Campervan Brewery has a taproom in Leith where you can sample their beers, brewed nearby. Pilot Beer, another Leith-based brewery, also has a taproom that hosts events and tap takeovers. The area's brewing scene has grown significantly, and a brewery tour is a good way to spend an afternoon before heading out for the evening.
Port of Leith on Constitution Street is a whisky bar with over 100 malts that offers a more refined drinking experience. For cocktails, Nauticus on Dock Place serves drinks in a shipping container-style bar overlooking the water.
Events and festivals
Leith Festival, held annually in June, is a community-run celebration with a parade, live music, market stalls, and family events. It reflects Leith's strong community identity and is one of the best opportunities to experience the area's collective spirit.
During the Edinburgh Festival Fringe in August, Leith hosts a growing number of shows and events. While the Fringe's centre of gravity remains in the Old Town and Southside, Leith venues are increasingly part of the programme, offering a less crowded alternative to the Royal Mile chaos. If you are planning a visit to the Fringe, event listings for Leith venues are worth checking separately.
Getting there and tips
Leith Walk runs directly from the east end of Princes Street down to Leith, a walk of about 25 minutes. Numerous bus routes (including Lothian Buses 7, 10, 12, 14, 22, and 25) serve Leith Walk and the area. The Edinburgh Trams extension to Newhaven, completed in 2023, now runs through Leith with stops at Foot of the Walk, Constitution Street, and Ocean Terminal, making access from the city centre much easier.
Leith is less expensive than Edinburgh's city centre for eating and drinking, which is part of its appeal. A night out in Leith can cost significantly less than the equivalent in the Old Town or New Town, without sacrificing quality. The combination of excellent food, atmospheric pubs, waterfront setting, and community events makes Leith one of the most rewarding neighbourhoods in Scotland for an evening out. And if you have read Irvine Welsh, walking these streets adds another layer entirely.
